Annapolis Rock, MD

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Great Falls, VA ] Boucher Rocks, VA ] Lynchburg Area, VA ] Manchester Bridge, VA ] Carderock, MD ] Sugarloaf Mt., MD ] [ Annapolis Rock, MD ] Rocks State Park, MD ] Conowingo Area, MD ] Nelson Rocks, WV ] Franklin, WV ] Livsey Rock, PA ] Henry Avenue Bridge, PA ] Tohickon Gorge, PA ] Pilot Mt., NC ] Red Rocks, NV ] Arizona ] Spain ]

Description: Top rope area and lead area on great rock
Location: Approximately 60 minutes northwest of Washington, D.C. near Frederick, MD.
Directions: From D.C. get on 495 north towards Silver Springs, MD.  Veer left onto I-270 towards Frederick, MD.  Stay on 270 for about 45 miles until you merge with Route 70.  Get off of I-70 at the Myersville exit (#42) and turn right at the end of the off-ramp, if you are coming from D.C. or Baltimore.   Go through town and make a right on Rt. 17.  Follow to the stop sign at the Rt. 40 intersection.  Turn left and follow Rt. 40 for about 2 miles.  Go up and down a couple of rolling hills and start looking to your left for the fairly well defined parking area.  Make a left and find a space.  If you cross the bridge over Rt. 70, you've gone too far.  Turn around at Greenbrier State Park on your left and try again.
Approach: After you park, look west for the large bulletin board.  There is a connector trail to the Appalachian trail just past the board.   Follow the old paved road for about 100 yards then look left and follow the foot trail down the hill.  At the bottom make a right and head northward on the AT paralleling I-70.  Do not go across the pedestrian foot bridge that spans Rt. 70.   Follow the mowed greenway path under the underpass, up the hill and veer left.   Follow the path for about 15 minutes and veer right at the Pine Knob Shelter.  Start heading uphill for about 20 minutes.  Once the trail flattens keep walking for about 20 minutes more.  On your left you will find a sign reading "Annapolis Rocks: View and Spring".  Follow this clearly marked, blue blazed trail down to a camping area and beautiful overlook.  The trail spits you out approximately above Faint's Roof.  There are trails to your left and right which will lead to the base of the cliffs.  Total approach time - 1 hour.
Note #1: We thought we missed the turn to Annapolis Rocks, but the left turn is very well marked so hang in there.  The spring does exist.  We thought that it would be located in the campgrounds.  It is not.  Keep following the blue blazed trail south through the camp sites and look to your left for a 2" white PVC pipe coming horizontally out of the ground.  We refilled our water bottles directly from the spring and did not get sick.  In hindsight, I would recommend filtering.
Note #2: I would again like to reference you to "Indy's Underground Climber's Guide to Sugarloaf Mountain and Other Areas..." for additional information regarding climbing in this area.  I could shamelessly regurgitate the information he has provided, but I only want to document what we have experienced to date.  Please visit his site. - MG

 

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Faint's Roof
(south to north)

Unknown (5.4-5.8 / toprope / 40 ft / PP )
Location: 50 feet left southern end of the wall
Anchors: Top rope 160+/- feet of webbing around a rock and two trees
The Run: Start at the base of the rock and climb the stair like slabs to the first mini-overhang.  Climb through the overhang and up to the large platform beneath the second overhang.  Start right of the larger overhang and work your hands up to the horizontal crack just above the slope of the overhang.  Work your feet up to top of overhang and you are done.
Comments: "The bottom section is beyond easy.  The first overhang looks very difficult from above, but isn't.  Make sure you set up your anchors so you can pull the second overhang.  This is the hardest part on
the run.  Maybe a 5.8 series of moves." - MG

Note:   To the right of the climbs is a relatively large overhang.  This is a great place to rappel down to the bottom, even if it's just for fun.  You get to suspend yourself over the edge and it is not as scary as Faint's Roof.

Ounce of Perception (5.9/ toprope / 60 ft / PPPP)
Location: 50 feet left of Unknown and 20 ft right of Faint's Roof
Anchors: Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing around two rocks
The Run: Start at the base of the rock and climb the arete pulling through three or four small overhangs. 
Comments:
Faint's Roof (5.10a / toprope / 30 ft / PPPPP )
Location: 20 feet left of Ounce or Perception under the massive roof
Anchors: Top rope - kind or tricky - use 250+/- feet of webbing around rocks at the top of the ledge or carefully downclimb a little from the top and use some medium sized pro in the lower rock and medium length slings.
The Run: Start at the base of the rock and climb the easy vertical face to the bottom of the roof.  Follow the hand-sized horizontal crack out to the edge and up and over the roof.  Once you have pulled the roof, the run is over.
Comments: "The first hand holds are pretty solid, the next is either a stretch move to the horizontal crack or an intermediate crimper.  After you get to the second tier of the roof the next hold is in the base of the vertical crack that runs to the finish.  The finish is where I got pumped and is a bit awkward to try and keep you feet on the rock as you thrash about for a medium hold above the vertical crack.  The first moves have a high fear factor, but are pretty solid, so go get them." - MG

 

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