Boucher Rocks, VA

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Description: Top rope area
Location: Approximately 30 minutes northwest of Washington, D.C. on south side of Potomac River
Directions: From D.C. get on 495 heading north towards Silver Springs, MD. Exit at Georgetown Parkway (193).   At the top of the ramp make a right (head east). Make a left hand turn at first light, Balls Highway Road.  Make a left at Live Oak Road and cross over 495. Follow Live Oak Road past all the mansions to the circle at the end of the road. Park.

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Approach: To access the climbing area, follow the blue blazed trail on the east side of the circle down towards the Potomac River. At the grassy area the trail splits, follow the trail straight towards the river. Veer left, upstream, and follow the sandy path to the rocks. Once you find the rocks the approach to the top is on the upstream side of the cliff. Ascend the STEEP wash and set up your anchors.  Total approach time - 15 to 20 minutes.

 

 

(From downstream to upstream)

Climbs:

Seeds and Stems (5.10/ toprope / 50 ft / P )
Location: 60 feet right of cliff’s downstream edge
Anchors: Top rope 250+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start at the slanting face, climb the left-hand crack up and around the small roof. Continue up left-hand corner to the top.
Comments: "The crack is too tiny to even get your fingers into. The rock face is nearly featureless. I couldn’t climb this run." – MG

 
Dancing Climb (5.8+/ toprope / 50 ft / PPP )
Location: 5 feet right of Seeds and Stems on slanting slab
Anchors: Top rope 250+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start at the slanting face, climb the face using the tiny holds and slippery footholds. Try not to use the right edge of the slab for an even more delicate ascent.
Comments: "The rock is great, holds are tiny and the lichen on the footholds is time bomb. I thought the run is closer to a 5.9+" – MG

 
Long Corner (5.8/ toprope / 45 ft / PPP )
Location: 15 feet right of Dancing Climb around right hand corner in crack
Anchors: Top rope 250+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start at the inside corner of the two slabs and climb crack to the top.
Comments: "This is a fun beefy run. There are only a couple of great hand holds because jamming is pretty difficult. Trying to find a solid place for your feet is another story." – MG
Dirty Dancing (5.10+/ toprope / 45 ft)
Location: 5 feet right of Long Corner on right hand slightly overhanging slab.
Anchors: Top rope 250+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start on right hand side of crack on the dirty slab. Climb flakes to the top.
Dirt Wall Direct (5.10/ toprope / 30 ft)
Location: 15 feet right of Dirty Dancing
Anchors: Top rope 200+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start at dirty slab and climb flakes to the top.
Arch-Sill Start (5.11/ toprope / 30 ft)
Location: 10 feet right of Dirt Wall Direct
Anchors: Top rope 200+/- feet of webbing around three trees
The Run: Start at small cracks and climb to the top

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