|
Breakaway Wall
| Description: |
Long moderate trad
routes, difficult mixed route and hard toprope only routes are what you'll find after
rappelling to the slab below. The hard rock yields to the climber chickenheads and
flakes which we can use to make our way to the top. |
| Approach: |
After walking down
the approach trail look for a noticeable "notch" within the rock band on your
right. Scramble up to left leaning pine tree on large ledge. Set up ropes
and/or rappel down to the slab below. Total approach time - 15 minutes. |
(left to right)
| 0 - Unnamed |
(5.6-5.8 / toprope / G-PG / 40 ft
/ ) - not shown |
| Location: |
left-most side of wall, at gully |
| Anchors: |
Top rope - long webbing to trad.
gear in rocks below |
| The Run: |
Start at base of the gully.
Scramble up to below overhang. Pull overhang and follow crack up to the top. |
| 1 - Bat |
(5.9 / toprope / G-PG / 50 ft /
) - not shown |
| Location: |
left-most side of wall, at gully |
| The Run: |
Start at base of the gully.
Scramble up gully for 30 ft. to below overhang. Stem up through overhang and work
the left leaning crack. Pass over the bulge to stance below overhang. Belay
here or exit right on chossy rock. |
| 2 - Green Centrifuge |
(5.7+ / toprope / G-PG / 60 ft
/ ) |
| Location: |
left-most side of wall, at gully |
| The Run: |
Start at base of the gully.
Scramble up to below overhang. Step right and climb irregular cracks to ramp above
and over to second ramp and stance right of large overhang. Continue up and over
bulge to Epitaph Ledge. |
| 3 - Centrifuge Direct |
(5.8 / toprope only / 60 ft /
) |
| Location: |
left-most side of wall, at gully |
| The Run: |
Start at base of the gully.
Scramble up gully for only 10 ft. Climb the arete with some loose flakes to meet
Green Centrifuge. |
| 4 - Breakaway |
(5.10a / toprope / G-PG / 70 ft /
) |
| Location: |
left side of wall at corner ramp |
| The Run: |
Start at corner. Climb easy
finger crack to bolt under overhang. Step left and climb thin crack. Angle
right along ramp and then back left to big holds. Finish the run on thin vertical
face (PG) to Epitaph Ledge. |
| 5 - Breakaway Left |
(5.10a / toprope / G-PG / 70 ft /
) |
| Location: |
left side of wall at corner ramp |
| The Run: |
Start at corner. Climb easy
finger crack to bolt under overhang. Step right and climb thin crack. Angle
back left to rejoin Breakaway. Finish the run on thin vertical face (PG) to Epitaph
Ledge. |
| 6 - Superbulge |
(5.12d / toprope only / 70 ft /
) |
| Location: |
8 feet right of Breakaway |
| The Run: |
Climb up left leaning crack in
groove to great undercling. Climb right side of flake to face. Continue left
on small holds to pins at Breakaway Left. Finish Breakaway left to ledge. |
| 7 - Breakfast of Champions |
(5.11c / toprope only / 70 ft /
) |
| Location: |
Same as Superbulge |
| The Run: |
Climb up V shaped notch in slab.
Angle right to shallow corner and up thin face to ledge. Finish on Mike's
Finger Bucket on right. |
| 8 - Mike's Finger Bucket |
(5.10a/b / toprope only / 70 ft /
) |
| Location: |
3 feet right of Breakfast of
Champions |
| The Run: |
Climb rough face for 10 ft, up left
facing shallow bulge and seam to horizontal below left side of overhang. Reach up
and right to good holds and up right facing flake to ledge. From ledge angle up left
to horizontal crack and then run to the top. |
| 9 - Vertical |
(5.6 / toprope / G / 75 ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
10 feet right of Mike's Finger
Bucket |
| The Run: |
Start at vertical finger crack.
Climb easily protected flakes to right facing layback crack and up face to belay
ledge. |
| 10 - Bone Jacker |
(5.7 / toprope / G-PG / 75 ft / PPP ) |
| Location: |
3 feet right of Vertical |
| The Run: |
Start at vertical finger crack.
Climb easily protected flakes to right facing layback crack and up face to belay
ledge. |
| 11 - Piney |
(5.10b-c / toprope / G-PG / 75 ft
/ ) |
| Location: |
3 feet right of Bone Jacker at
small corner |
| The Run: |
Start at corner and climb chicken
heads to orange overhang. Over this, up rough face above to slab and continue to
ceiling. Climb out ceiling to lip and pull the roof to ledge with large tree on it. |
| 12 - Piney Too
( project ) |
(5.11c-d / toprope / ?? / 75 ft /
) |
| Location: |
3 feet right of Bone Jacker at
small corner |
| The Run: |
Start at corner and climb chicken
heads to orange overhang. Step right around overhang and continue up and over
bulging rock to slab. Climb up to ceiling. Undercling ceiling to lip and over
on thin crimpy finger holds. |
|
