|
All of the climbs
mentioned here are located at the base of the cliff about 75 foot right of the bulletin
board if you are looking at the river.
(left to right)
| Marian's
Chimney |
(5.4/ toprope / 25 ft / ) |
| Location: |
10 feet right and around the corner from large
slab facing the river |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 200+/- feet of webbing around three
trees |
| The Run: |
Start at the base of leaning slab and chimney
your way to the top. |
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|
| Swayback
Layback |
(5.8/ toprope / 30 ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
5 feet right of chimney |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 200+/- feet of webbing
around three trees |
| The Run: |
Start at the base of right
slanting face and layback left for the first couple of moves. Rotate out onto the
vertical face and climb towards the finger crack on your left at the top. |
| Comments: |
"This has got to be the
hardest 5.8 I have ever done. Everything is a sloper or time bomb. I couldn't
keep my balance while pivoting onto the vertical face." - MG |
| The Bump |
(5.8/ toprope / 30 ft / PPPPP ) |
| Location: |
The start is at the second quartzite vein, 20
feet left of the predominant Beginner's Crack |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 160+/- feet of webbing around three
trees |
| The Run: |
Follow the quartzite pinchers straight up
until you have to move right to the next quartzite vein. Follow holds on the main
face to the horizontal crack. Finish on the easy sloping face. |
| Comments: |
"This run has all of the best of
Carderock, slopers, smearing, and tight quartzite crimpers. All the good holds were
dirty. I guess no one had climbed this run recently." - MG |
| The
Diamond |
(5.8/ toprope / 30 ft / PPP ) |
| Location: |
5 feet right of The Bump and 3
feet left of Beginner's Crack. The route follows the quartzite vein up through the
diamond "overhang" |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 160+/- feet of webbing
around three trees |
| The Run: |
Start at the flake just left of
the large crack. Climb the trough in the rock straight towards the diamond.
Use hand holds on the left side and one tiny crimper on the lip of the diamond to pull
through. Finish on the easy stuff. |
| Comments: |
"The beginning was pretty
easy, pulling through the diamond is the hardest part." - MG |
| Beginner's
Crack |
(5.3/ toprope / 30 ft / ) |
| Location: |
The predominant feature on the
slab |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 120+/- feet of webbing
around two trees |
| The Run: |
Start at the base of left slanting
crack and long vertical crack. Follow the large vertical crack to the top. Layback
or jam the vertical crack. |
| Comments: |
"A great beginner run.
Thus the name. Hand jam to make the run harder." - MG |
| Beginner's
Face |
(5.4/ toprope / 30 ft / ) |
| Location: |
5 to 15 feet right of large crack |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 120+/- feet of webbing around two
trees |
| The Run: |
Climb inward leaning slab to the top. |
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