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West View Parking Lot
Middle Earth
| Approach: |
Park in West View Parking
Lot. Walk south towards the snack bar (the large brown hut just as you enter the
lot). To the right of the large bulletin board you will find a green trail paved
with flat pieces of rock, head left up the trail towards the summit. After about
five minutes and just before the stairs, (the real stone stairs, not the densely spaced
waterbars), make a right off into the forest towards the talus slope and wall face.
You're there. Total approach time - 10 minutes. |
(routes from left to right)
| Go Ballistic |
(5.10 / toprope / 35 ft / ) |
| Location: |
right side of 3rd class gully |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees on the left and a rock to the right. |
| The Run: |
|
| Butterfingers |
(5.8 / toprope - trad. / 45 ft / PPPP ) |
Click on image to enlarge
Dirk Schulze throwing the
"Crotch Jam" at the crux |
| Location: |
30ft right of gully, beneath
roof, at black water stains |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around trees or #1 and #2 cams and large hex (#10) |
| The Run: |
Start at black water stain and climb up
and left following the good finger crack. Continue up and left onto the arete. Throw
your right leg up onto and above the roof. Crotch jam. Get back on your feet
using thin hand holds. Follow the good crack through the next little roof and finish
on slopers. There is a good horn to the left. Carry small nuts (#4 and #5) to
protect the crux and gear up to 1.5" for the rest. |
| Rhythm
Roof |
(5.9 / toprope / 45 ft / ) |
| Location: |
|
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees on the left and a rock to the right. |
| The Run: |
|
| Revenge of
the Spider Gods |
(5.6/5.7 / toprope / 45 ft / ) |
| Location: |
|
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees on the left and a rock to the right. |
| The Run: |
|
| Seven
Wishes |
(5.6 / toprope - trad. / 50 ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
Left of large chimney (Cave
Route) below prow-like feature at base of crack |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees or #2, #3 cams, and small nut. |
| The Run: |
Star at the base of the finger/hand crack
under overhanging prow-like feature. Stem and mantle your way up through the gap to
a good ledge (you can start at this ledge if you do not want to pull the poorly protected
first move by climbing on the left side of the overhang - 5.3). Follow crack up to
the top using available foot and hand holds on the slab to the right and arete to the
left. Bring gear up to 1.5" for the run and then the larger stuff for your
anchors at the top. |
| Cave Route |
( 3rd or 4th class / 40 ft ) |
| Location: |
Up and through the chimney |
| The Run: |
Scramble up and through the chimney like
gully to the top. An adventurous way to the top of all the routes to set up your
anchors. |
| I am a CAM |
(5.7 / toprope / 45 ft / ) |
| Location: |
Chimney at Cave Route |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees. |
| The Run: |
Begin in the cave, chimney your way out
and on to the face above. Finish on the upper slab. |
| Unnamed |
(5.8 / toprope / 45 ft / ) |
| Location: |
10 feet right of the cave under
the larger, blocky roof |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees. |
| The Run: |
Climb the arete up and under the
roof. Traverse right. Pull the roof and finish on the upper slab. |
| A Flake
Called Lee |
(5.5 / toprope - trad. / 45 ft / PPP ) |
| Location: |
40 feet right of the cave and
around the corner on the large slab |
| Anchors: |
Top rope 150+/- feet of webbing
around two trees or large gear in the horizontal cracks. |
| The Run: |
Climb the fun hand then finger crack up
the slab. Veer right at the dihedral. The crux move is smearing and palming
your way right and out of the finger crack. Much! easier climbing is above. |
The Pillar
| Approach: |
 Continue up the stairs on the green
trail. After about two to three minutes, you will see a large white colored
boulder/face abutting the trail to the right and just straight ahead. This is The
Pillar. Climbs are described from left to right starting where the trail turns
left. |
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