| Description: |
Top rope, sport, and traditional climbing area
located on private land. |
| Location: |
Approximately three hours west of Washington,
D.C. and 15 minutes south of Seneca Rocks, WV. |
| Directions: |
From D.C. get on 66 west
towards Front Royal, VA. Head south on Rt. 81 briefly and then west on Rt. 55.
Continue on 55, winding through the mountains, following signs for 55 west at the
small towns until you reach the town of Seneca Rocks. Veer left onto Rt. 33/28 south
at Seneca Rocks. Follow 33/28 for 11 miles south, cross the river and make right
hand turn onto 28 south. Stay on 28 south for 0.5 +/- miles and then make a left
onto a Nelson Rocks Gap Road, a dirt/gravel road. Register at the office, pay the
$5.00 fee (it is worth every penny), and sign the release. Parking is up and to the
right. |
Note: |
Before I continue any further I need to make my commentary on Nelson
Rocks. This has got to be one of the most enjoyable areas to climb anywhere.
The attitude is casual, rustic, adventuresome, and convenient. The routes provide a
variety of climbing for everyone in your party. The owner of the land, Stuart Hammett, is a fellow climber who has a real appreciation for some of the access
difficulties we find elsewhere in the country. He has graciously allowed us to climb
on his land, because he respects us. Please, respect the rules of the park.
The area is still being developed, so there is plenty of loose rock. I know it
doesn't look cool, but wear a helmet, my girlfriend almost killed me when a foot hold
broke loose on a 5.7. Check
out his cabins!, they are sweet.
Thanks! - MTG |
click here! - Nelson
Rocks Official Web Site - click here! |
007 Wall
| Description: |
This is the third wall from west
to east on the left (west) fin. The routes are easy to moderate with bolted and
mixed runs available. There are at least two multi-pitch routes on the face.
This is a great area and is highly recommended for the intermediate leader and beginner
climber. |
| Approach: |
From the parking area, hike up
the road to the corridor trail on your left. Climb the wooden stairs and head up the
trail for 40 feet. Cut left before you get too far right into the talus field. 5
minute approaches are the best! |
| E-Z Wider |
(5.5+ / sport / 5 bolts / 50ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
30 feet right of left edge of wall |
| Comments: |
"Climb the awkward crack, stemming left
then right through 5 bolts to rap anchor at tree. Great route, but as soon as you
start left you need to go back right and so it continues." - MG |
| E-Z Wider P2 |
(5.7 / sport / 7 bolts / 70ft / PPPP ) |
| Comments: |
"Step out right onto arete/dihedral and
climb fairly positive holds to two bolt belay ledge. The crux is surmounting the
thin feet bulge between the bolt 6 and seven. The climbing is fabulous, exposure
severe and the runout near the top a little scary even though it is 5.5." - MG |
| License to Drill |
(5.8 / sport / 5 bolts / 50ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
Start 10 feet right of E-Z Wider |
| Comments: |
"" - MG |
| Never
Say Never |
(5.8 /
sport / 5 bolts / ) |
| Location: |
Start 10
feet right of License to Drill |
| Comments: |
|
| Disney
Channel |
(5.4 / mixed
/ 2 bolts / ) |
| Location: |
Start 20
feet right of Never Say Never |
| Diamonds are
Forever |
(5.7 / mixed / 6 bolts / 80ft / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
Start 10 feet right and up of
Disney Channel |
| Comments: |
"This is a solid, straight
forward run with a couple of nice little bulges in the middle. Bring large nuts for
the crack near the top, or a #1 and #2 B.D. Friend. Break right near of the crack at
the ledge for the anchors." – MG |
| Diamonds are
Forever P2 |
(5.7 / trad / 4 gear placements /
40ft / PPP ) |
|
Continue up from anchors to next
set of anchors (second pitch of millennium) by the tree on the ledge just left of the
first pitch. |
| Comments: |
"Rumor has it that this is
part of a 5.7 trad run called Millennium that runs clear to the top of the fin. We
accidentally discovered the "second" pitch when we ran our 50m rope to the end
after missing the first set of anchors." – MG |
| Snake Oil |
(5.7 / mixed / gear up to 4"
- 3 bolts / 60ft / PPP ) |
| Location: |
Start 30 feet up from
Diamonds. Scramble up to large crack in flake. |
| Comments: |
"Climb the awkward crack
between the large flake up to the slab, traverse right, and finish through the slopey
lichen field. The only gear placement we found was between the ground and the first
bolt. Watch out for the barndoor affect on this one. " – MG |
| Lisa Schulze
cranking on Snake Oil (5.7) |
Sticky Fingers |
(5.7 / sport / 6 bolts/ 50ft / PPP ) |
|
Location: |
Start 15 feet right of Unnamed at
tree with crooked base near all of the pricker vines |
|
Comments: |
"Difficult start to the left
leaning ramped slab. Climb up and left through the left leaning flakes on solid
holds. The crux is pulling the dirty bulge through the lichen field just below the
anchors." – MG |
|
