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All of the following areas are within an hour of Phoenix and
can be reached via car. There are many areas which have small $2 pocket guides, of
which I hope to summarize, but HIGHLY recommend purchasing. We bought ours at Desert
Mountain Sports, 2824 E. Indian School, Phoenix. (602) 955-2875.
| Camelback
Mountain |
| Description: |
A highly accessible urban
climbing spot comprised of numerous bouldering, sport, and traditional climbing routes on
funky conglomerate of granite boulders and rock embedded within sandstone. Routes
ratings are from 5.0 to 5.12 with some bolted, some traditional, single and multi-pitch
runs available. |
| Location: |
Approximately 20 minutes
north of Downtown Phoenix |
| Directions: |
From Downtown head out to
44th street north. Follow the road as it bends right (east) and turns into McDonald
Drive. Almost immediately on your right, pull into Echo Canyon Park on the north
side of the mountain. Park in one of the designated areas. |
| Approach: |
From the parking area, walk
along the clearly marked and well traveled path to either the bouldering field or a little
bit further to the cliffs. Total approach time - 10 minutes. |
| Note: |
Echo Canyon Park is open from 6:00 am to sundown. Please note
that the map, below, of the bouldering area is to be used as a rough guide and to wet your
whistle. Please purchase Marty Karakin's, Camelback MTN -
Bouldering and Climbing Guide. We have
intentionally left out a lot of detail because we wish to give credit where credit is due.
There are easily 25 to 40 more bouldering routes than mentioned below. As
well, there are 46 established routes described in detail in the guide. Purchase the
map and support the locals. Thanks. |
Main Boulder |
Sugarloaf |
No
Balony Boulder |
| 1 |
Low traverse |
Tough |
11 |
Three flakes low traverse |
Hard |
22 |
Vertical |
Tough |
| 2 |
Low traverse |
Easy |
12 |
Thin vertical face |
Easy-Int. |
23 |
Vertical |
Hard |
| 3 |
High traverse |
Med |
13 |
Vertical |
Hard |
24 |
Vertical |
Tough |
| 4 |
Big rock to big rock lunge |
Hard |
14 |
Low traverse |
Intense |
|
| 5 |
High traverse |
Tough |
15 |
Middle traverse |
Tough |
*
Please stay on the marked trails |
| 6 |
Vertical |
Med |
16 |
High traverse |
Med |
* The
park is fairly busy, please |
| 7 |
Vertical |
Med |
17 |
Vertical |
Tough |
respect the other users. |
| 8 |
Vertical |
Tough |
18 |
Vertical |
Tough |
If
you are feeling up to it, hike |
| 9 |
Traverse |
Med |
19 |
Sit down start vertical |
Med |
to
the top of the Camel's Hump. |
| 10 |
Traverse corner |
Hard |
20 |
Low traverse |
Hard |
It
is quite a workout, be fore- |
| |
|
|
21 |
Crack |
Easy |
warned! |
| McDowell
Mountain and Little Granite Mountain |
| Description: |
Soon to be part of
Scottsdale's McDowell Sonoran Preserve, the granite provides friction, crack, and face
climbing with mostly single pitch, bolted and traditional, runs ranging between 5.0 and
5.12. |
| Location: |
Approximately 45 minutes
northeast of Downtown Phoenix in North Scottsdale. |
| Approach: |
10 - 30 minute hike from the
parking area |
| Reading: |
Phoenix Rock II, by Greg Opland |
| Queen
Creek - Euro Dog Valley |
| Description: |
A lifetime of climbing is
available in this area with many bolted sport climbs and bouldering. As a matter of
fact the '92 -'93 Phoenix Bouldering Contest was held in the numerous fields at the base
of the cliffs. The pocketed Ryolite provide a fantastic arena to try the 5.6 to 5.12
crack face climbs. |
| Location: |
Approximately 20 minutes
north of Downtown Phoenix |
| Directions: |
From Downtown head east on
Route 60 Superstition Highway through the town of Superior and west of Globe to mile 230
Magma Mine Road. Turn right, head south, and pass the Oak Flat Campgrounds and
continue up the road toward the mine. |
| Approach: |
From the parking area, walk
anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes along the clearly marked and well traveled path into the
valley. |
| Reading: |
Rock Jock's Guide to
Queen Creek Canyon, by Marty Karabin Euro Dog Valley -
Rock Climbing and Bouldering Guide, by Marty Karabin |
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