| Location: |
Approximately 30
minutes north of Winston-Salem, NC. Approximately 1.5 hours west of Durham, NC, 3.5 hours
from Richmond, VA, and 5 hours from Washington, D.C. |
| Directions: |
From D.C. – Take
the 495 or 395 south towards Richmond. Get on 95 south to Richmond. Stay on 95 through
Richmond until 80. Take 80 towards Durham. Stay on 80/40 at Durham and head west towards
Greensborough. Stay on Business Rt. 40 towards Downtown Winston-Salem. Get on Rt. 55 north
out of Winston. Exit Rt. 55 at Pilot Mountain State Park. Make left, enter park, and
follow road to the mountaintop parking area. |
| Approach: |
From
parking area, south is the main pinnacle, north is a registration box and trailhead.
REGISTER at box. Walk down crushed gravel path right, then veer left at first blazed trail
sign. Follow mildly steep forest hiking trail for approximately 30 minutes to the end of
the cliff or set up top rope anchor and rappel to lower level cliff trail. According to
the climbing guidebook, you can access the lower trail via the Three Bears Gully. We could
not find it easily and opted to go to the end of the trail. The rangers have requested
that you do not descend at any locations other than by the ways mentioned above.
Total approach time - 40 minutes. |
| Climbs: |
|
| 10-Ball |
(5.10 / toprope / ) |
| 9-Ball |
(5.9 / toprope / ) |
| 8-Ball |
(5.8 / toprope / ) |
| Snooker |
(5.9 / toprope / ) |
| Scarface |
(5.6 / toprope / 35 ft / PPP ) |
| Location: |
60 feet right of western face of
second cliff |
| Anchors: |
Top rope Cordelette of 130+/- feet
of webbing around three largest trees atop run |
| The Run: |
There are numerous runs on the
face. My favorite was to start in the off-width crack ascend the crack utilizing the
numerous pockets and buckets. Reach up and over the bulge. Lay back off of the crack
above. |
|
