| Description: |
Sport Climbing / Traditional |
| Location: |
Approximately 30 minutes west of Las Vegas, NV. |
| Directions: |
From the new Strip – head north on Las Vegas
Blvd. to Charleston Blvd. Make left on Charleston and head west out of the city into the
hills until you see signs for Red Rocks Canyon National Park. Make a right into the park,
loop around right towards the Ranger station, pay $5.00 entrance fee and follow loop road
towards your destination. |
Climbs:
Second Pullout
The Magic Bus
| Description: |
If you are an intermediate climber new to sport run routes,
this is the first place you should visit on your Red Rocks trip. This wall has enough for
a good days worth of climbing without the muscle bound rock dancers found at other
locations in the canyon. The feel is unpretentious, friendly and inviting. A relatively
unpopulated wall, the runs and laydown area are worth the hike. |
| Approach: |
From second pullout parking area, head down the main trail on
the north side of the lot, towards the bottom of the gully. At the bottom, follow the wash
right around the large sloping rock formations for +/- 10 minutes. Follow the trail left,
upwards towards a gully rising to the next tier of rock. Scramble back left for a little
while. Keep the black water stained wall in your view and you’ll find it. The
guidebook routes you directly up the face. We had a hell of a time doing this and opted
for the easier / longer route around and up. Total approach time - 40
minutes. |
| Electric Kool-Aid |
(5.9+ / sport / 9 bolts / PP
) |
| Location: |
10 feet right of edge of wall |
| Comments: |
"Climb numerous flakes to chain anchors. I found this
run to be easier that a 5.9+." - MG |
| Blonde Dwarf |
(5.10- / sport / 9 bolts / PP
) |
| Location: |
Start 10 feet right of Electric Kool-Aid on large boulder |
| Comments: |
"Follow the thin crack and meet back with Electric
Kool-Aid at the anchors." - MG |
| Neon Sunset |
(5.8 / sport / 10 bolts / PPPP
) |
| Location: |
Start 20 feet right of Blonde Dwarf |
| Comments: |
"A great run with numerous good hand and footholds, even
though it doesn’t appear that way from the bottom. Start just left off of the center
section of boulders. I found that the beginning is by far the most difficult and that the
run required more gear than I brought. Make sure that you bring at least 11 quickdraws.
Climb flakes and cracks to chain anchors. Great beginner run or intermediate lead
route." - MG |
| Technicolor Sunrise |
(5.8 / sport / 5 bolts / PPP
) |
| Location: |
Start 25 feet right of Neon Sunset |
| Comments: |
"Yet another great run using flakes and medium sized
cracks to ascent the left side of the right hand arete. A couple of bulges near the bottom
and middle of the run make it a little more interesting." – MG |
| Ken Queasy |
(5.8 / sport / 5 bolts / PPP ) |
| Location: |
Start 10 feet right of Technicolor Sunrise |
| Comments: |
"Difficult start at crack on slick rock to
first bolt. After second bolt join Technicolor Sunrise and follow to the chain
anchors." – MG |
|
Kelly Climbing Neon Sunset |
The Gallery
| Description: |
A famous and extremely popular spot for sport climbing.
There are many climbers ripping off routes as if they were machines.
Unfortunately, we found the people to be very cold and terribly intimidating. The
classic routes are on the right hand side of the crag and right in front of you as you
approach from below. |
| Approach: |
From second pullout parking area, head down the main trail on
the north side of the lot, towards the bottom of the gully. The path breaks left
near the bottom at the wash. Follow the path up and left over the small ridge.
At the very prominent boulder/slab as you come down from the ridge, turn right.
Head basically straight up the slabs and head left at the gully, up through the
chimney, across the gully and then back up and right on new very large slabs. Keep
hiking up and under the heavily chalked overhanging slab that smells like urine (I wonder
why?) to the base of the cliff. You should be staring at The Gift. Total
approach time - 45 minutes. |
| Sport Climbing Is Neither |
(5.8 / sport / 3 bolts / PPP
) |
| Location: |
Start 50 yards left of entrance to The Gallery and second
route to the right of the end |
| Comments: |
"This was a pretty nice and easy run with some
intimidating bulges. Great hand and foot holds and basically a hands free lip at the
anchor." - MG |
| Buck's Muscle World |
(5.9- / sport / 3 bolts / PPP
) |
| Location: |
Start 50 yards left of entrance to The Gallery and third
route to the right of the end |
| Comments: |
"Fairly similar to the above route, but a bit more
bulging. Again a nice easy lean into the rock at the anchor." - MG |
Sandstone Quarry Northeast
Mass Production Wall
| Description: |
A shady cliff that no one ever seems to visit, but that does
not mean the climbing isn’t worth it. A great quiet get away with runs from 5.8 to
5.11. My favorite part is the lay down area in the sun just left of the base of the cliff. |
| Approach: |
From Sandstone Quarry parking area, follow trail on the north
side of the lot. Follow the well-established stone trail north towards the mountains
keeping the obvious wash area on your right. At the Calico Basin trail marker turn right
across the wash and follow the small hiking trail east approximately 500 yards. This is
where it gets tricky. Stay on the path until the path turns into a well-defined wash and
starts heading north. Ahead you will see the path continue onto well worn slick rock. Turn
right on one of the tiny stone footpaths between the shrubs before the slick rock area.
Follow the path due east keeping the large white peak on your left and the red formations
on your right. Follow the path for 400 yards until you see the large arete pointing at
you. The left side of the arete located in the shade is Mass Production Wall. Scramble up
the relatively steep gully looking for the bolts on your right. The laydown area is up and
to your left atop the flat area behind a couple of random trees in the gully. Total
approach time - 45 minutes. |
(Left to right)
Hit and Run |
(5.9 / sport / 7 bolts / PPP
) |
| Location: |
Start at the diagonally slanting crack near the tree with the
broken top |
| Comments: |
"Follow the undercling left and up the slab. This
is the hardest part of the whole climb. Follow the face just right of the vertical
crack. I found myself doing a lot of tiny mantles on this run. Quite fun. " -
MG |
| Trigger Happy |
(5.10a / sport / 7 bolts / PPPPP
) |
| Location: |
30 feet right of Hit and Run on the left side of black
watermark that resembles Australia |
| Comments: |
"The start is really dicey. Be careful getting to
the first bolt. After you get clipped in, follow the crack running through the
watermark. Once you get near the top of the watermark, there are great holds on the
left and top sides. This was the first 10 I ever led so I thought it was
awesome." – MG |
| Battery Powered |
(5.9 / sport / 6 bolts / PPP ) |
| Location: |
40 feet right of Trigger Happy,
around the bend in the wall near the pine tree n the talus slope |
| Comments: |
"Good flake climbing.
Pretty straight forward and fun." – MG |
| Parts Is Parts |
(5.8 / sport / 5 bolts / PPPP ) |
| Location: |
15 feet right of Battery Powered |
| Comments: |
"This had some great buckets that you could sit on most of the day.
Tough section at the bottom requiring a lot of balance and a good reach right.
The rest of the climb is your reward for making it past the bottom sequence."
– MG |
|
